So, we recently got back from our favorite Italian adventure yet and we just had to share it with y'all. The magical Saturnia is a small spa town located within the coastal area of Maremma in southern Tuscany. Famous for the spa which gives it its name, Saturnia's population is only 280 and has been inhabited since ancient times. Home to the thermal baths of Cascate del Mulino, Saturnia is about 5 hours away from where we are currently living in Italy, but the hot springs alone were BEYOND worth the drive. We would totally fly back to this paradise-come-to-life from the states without hesitation. The view of the waterfalls rushing over the bright blue, naturally heated pools is enough to take your breath away. William and I kept gushing over the fantastical, healing energy surrounding this place. We were only able to spend two days in Tuscany, and we ended up spending a majority of our time at Cascate del Mulino because it was so incredibly peaceful and relaxing.
Legend has it that the thermal springs were formed during a violent dispute between Saturn and Jupiter when a thunderbolt fell to the earth, causing sulfurous, warm water to gush out from the crater of a volcano as a way to bring calmness and peace to mankind. The steady temperature of 37°C (98°F) all year round is enough to make you wonder if there is divinity at work. We personally think this is one of the places on Earth where God decided to give us a glimpse of what Heaven will be like. The springs are not only a beauty to behold but the mineral-dense water and mud are also believed to have an array of health-related benefits for skin, hair, the respiratory system and mental health for humans and animals alike! Here's everything you need to know:
Arriving at Cascate del Mulino
The Location: Cascate del Mulino is not to be confused with the luxurious spa complex, the Terme di Saturnia which is also said to be amazing, but you must pay to enter. However, don't worry if your GPS takes you to the wrong place. Saturnia is quite small and the hot springs are right down the street from the spa. Just be sure to type in Cascate del Mulino, and you shouldn't have any trouble. This heavenly getaway is about 151 km (2 hour drive) from Rome, 191 km (3 hour drive) from Florence and 429 km (5 hour drive) from Vicenza. Although getting there can be quite the road trip, the experience is irreplaceable.
The Hours: The natural hot springs are open 24/7, every day of the week, all year long! If you are planning to swim at night, be careful of the sharp rocks and flowing water. There are no lights other than the natural moonlight and the upper pools can be pretty powerful.
The Cost: We were shocked to discover that spending the day at Cascate del Mulino is absolutely FREE. You don’t have to pay to park, swim, sun bathe or soak in the mind-blowing scenery. We aren't sure how long this will remain free because it seems like there should be a catch, but as of now, it truly costs nothing to enjoy!
The Parking: There is FREE parking on site! Follow the signs right down to the hot springs and turn right. You can park anywhere in the dirt field and walk right across the street to the springs. Always keep your car locked, as the Cascate del Mulino hot springs is a very popular public space.
The Temperature: The water pours from the source at 37°C (98.6°F), but drops a few degrees as you get closer to the fresh water at the bottom of Cascate del Mulino. The majority of the springs crazily stays a constant, pleasant temperature all year long!
Food and Drinks: There is a small snack bar, instant pizza machine and vending machines next to the hot springs with indoor and outdoor tables. We recommend bringing your own snacks and a cooler with drinks of your own, though. Saturnia also has many restaurants near by for before/after your trip to Cascate del Mulino.
Restroom Sitch: There are no free public toilets, but there is a bar next door that you can use if you buy something. There are also no showers or changing rooms, but it's Europe so feel free to change in your car or in the parking lot. This is a natural waterfall, so no one pays much attention.
How to Have the Best Experience
When to Visit: Even if the springs are crowded, you’re going to have an unforgettable experience. If you want to avoid the crowds, arrive in the early morning or late evening, on a week day or during the off-season. You can also get a more private experience in the stream that feeds the waterfall. Hardly anyone swims there, but it’s just as warm and all the more private. It's located right across the street from the springs and you can see the heat rising from the spring most of the year.
Bring Flip Flops or Water Shoes: The hot springs are rocky and uneven, so walking through them barefoot will hurt your feet. We didn't bring extra shoes and our feet were sore for days. Coming prepared will definitely make maneuvering around to the best pools much easier!
Jewelry and Clothes: Don't forget that the thermal waters originate from an underground source that is rich in minerals and sulphur. The minerals can turn your jewelry green or black and the sulphur will leave an eggy smell on your clothes. Be sure to take off your jewelry and save your favorite, fancy bathing suits for another adventure.
The Smell: We were happily surprised to find that the springs didn't "stink" but there definitely is a noticeable sulphuric odor when you approach the springs and on your skin/clothes after leaving. A hot shower did the trick, but we did have to wash our clothes multiple times. We recommend keeping your hot springs clothes away from the rest of your luggage in a plastic bag to avoid smelling up your whole wardrobe. Like we said, it's not terrible but you'll definitely want to keep them separated.
Dog Friendly? We did bring our Moobear with us to Cascate del Mulino, and had no problems! She had a blast and the water actually seemed to condition her fur! If you plan to bring your dog with you, please keep in mind that people head to the springs for a relaxing time, so they will definitely give you the side eye if your pup is rambunctious. We kept Moonie at the bottom of the springs so she wouldn't jump on or splash visitors. We will say, we didn't get the full hot spring experience until we left her at home and went on our own later on. If you want to fully enjoy the romance of the springs, definitely make sure you carve out some time without your pup. (Sorry, Moo! We love you! LOL)
Safety Tips
Rushing Water: Although most of the pools are shallow, there are some deep areas and the water is fast moving near the top of the falls. There are no lifeguards on duty, so be careful and be sure to keep an eye on kiddos and pets if they join the fun.
Dehydration: Similar to bathing in hot tubs, dehydration is a risk. Make sure you drink plenty of water and take breaks from the hot water. Pregnant women and young children are not advised to swim in the hot springs.
Sunbathing: The Tuscan sun is hot in the summer, so bring sunscreen and an umbrella, especially if your skin is sensitive.
Hygiene: Despite the water being smelly and slimy, the hot springs are totally safe and are even said to have great health benefits. Because this is a natural attraction, you might see little worms or bugs swimming around in there, but they are harmless.
Where We Stayed
There were SO MANY affordable accommodations right around the hot springs. We were so happily surprised at how a place so beautiful could be so low-cost. We found our lil getaway spot on Airbnb, but it was actually a Bed & Breakfast called Agriturismo Il Cavallino. This cozy and quiet (and dog-friendly) spot was located deep in the Tuscan Hills and truly felt like an escape from reality.
We were happily surprised by the hospitality provided by Marco and his staff, who spoke perfect english! We had to check in late at night because of our work schedules and they waited for us to arrive. We stayed in the "Leccino" Room which was the perfect size for the two of us and our Moonie Moo. The complimentary breakfast was plenty to get our day started before going to the hot springs which was only a 14 minute drive away!
While admiring the Tuscan Countryside, we were in awe of how many wineries and restaurants there were nearby and we even took a 30 drive to see the coast. During our drive, we stumbled upon a beautiful winery called Villa Acquaviva Winery where we met the sweetest Italian woman who set up a spontaneous private tasting for us. We drank wine, learned about the history of the winery and their process from vine to glass and got some local insight on the local area. If you make your way there, we highly reccomend their Maremma Toscana DOC White Wine called Tuttisanti, which is a classical blend of local grapes: Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Verdello. We wish we brought home more bottles of this unique white wine that has a rust color!
Goodness, we just can’t say enough amazing things about it this place! Saturnia was the perfecttttt relaxing getaway that made us feel totally unplugged from the world and closer to each other. After spending many months apart recently, it was just what we needed. We are also so so grateful that we had a photographer document this trip for us because it truly was our favorite adventure yet. A big thank you to Monja Wormser for exploring with us and helping us capture these memories for a lifetime. Follow our amazing photographer @monjawormserweddings to see more of her amazing work and us @unitedwestanley to see more from our recent adventures! We hope this post is helpful for you when planning your visit to Saturnia, Tuscana. We can't wait to get back to this materialized daydream! Enjoy and soak it all in!
Photography by Monja Wormser
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